A Quick Guide to What to See
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Ishigaki Sights to see, Events not to Miss
Ishigaki
Ishigaki Island is the administrative and urban brain of Yaeyama. With a population of about 45,000 people it easily dwarfs its neighboring islands, and all of the administrative offices of the other islands are, ironically, located on Ishigaki. Over 70 percent of Ishigaki's population is centered around "Ishigaki City" which lies on roughly the southern third of the island. The remaining two thirds of the island are covered in farms and rugged mountains. This bucolic situation is changing fast. As developers clamor to change zoned agricultural land to residential or commercial property, houses are popping up like mushrooms all over the island. The Ishigaki that you see today will be very, very different in the future.
If your travel time is short, I recommend leaving Ishigaki as soon as possible for the outer islands (see below)--but if you can spare a few days, travel on Ishigaki can be very rewarding. Whether you stay on Ishigaki or are just passing through, a first stop should be the tourist information section on the second floor of Ishgiaki City Hall (the dilapidated moss covered structure in the center of town). Ask to speak to the CIR (me) or to Nishime san for up-to-date information, and travel maps.
A Quick Note On Hogen
If you have traveled much in Okinawa, then you are most likely already familier with Hogen, or local dialects. The Hogen found in Okinawa is a diverse as the number of islands, and absolutely incomprehensible to speakers of standard Japanese. It sounds very close to Thai, or some of the other South East Asian Languages. On islands such as Miyako (North of Yaeyama) Hogen is still very much a part of life, used for daily conversation.
On Ishigaki, Hogen is still very important to the local people. Especially in villages such as Miyara, the use of hogen, is a matter of pride and village identity. Unlike Miyako, the variety of hogen on Ishigaki is staggeringly diverse. Villages seperated by only a few meters have completely different ways of speaking. Some of this can be traced to the diverse origins of the people in Yaeyama. Therefore, on Ishigaki, much more so than on Miyako, standard Japanese is used as a common language and for everyday communication. An unfortunate result of this is that in the urban areas of Ishigaki, the ability to speak hogen as a language is rapidly becoming the skill of only a few older people. Efforts to save the local dialect have gained some momentum in recent years, if you wish you can buy a heavy dictionary of Yaeyama words at the local book store.
One other unconfirmed reason I have heard for the prominence of spoken Japanese in Ishigaki is related to the connections between Yaeyama and Taiwan during the pre-World War II era. Prior to World War II, the islands of Yaeyama and Taiwan were part of the same administrative unit. Ambitious people in Yaeyama, who wanted to succeed in Taiwan needed to know Japanese. Because of this parents encouraged their children to speak Japanese at home.
Things to do in Ishigaki
Getting Around:
If you feel up for some exercise, the cheapest way to see the island of Ishigaki is from the seat of a bicycle. Bicycles can be rented from a store directly in front of the Ishigaki Grand Hotel, in the center of town (near the remote island ferry terminal). Rates are reasonable, though the bikes lack gears. If you are not feeling up for saddle seat, then rental cars are fairly cheap, and certainly make it easy to dart to the far said of the island. It is approximately 30 kms from the south side of Ishigaki to the North side. If you continue along the coast, the road is relatively flat but there are a few hills. If you take your time, stop at the many juice stands along the way; expect the trip to take about 2 hours.
Public Bus: There are buses to many parts of the island. The bus terminal is located directly behind the large "uminchukan" near the remote island ferry terminal. A good way to find it is to start from the Miyahira hotel. Walk behind the hotel, through the parking lot until you see lots of buses. Timetables are likely to change, so check times before you leave. Rates are fairly cheap.
Rental Car: There are many rental car places around the island (some think too many). Rates are reasonable, about 6000 yen for 24 hours in a white-plate car, or 4000 yen for 24 hours in a yellow plate.
Taxi: Taxis are expensive--to get to Yonehara beach on the north side of the island from Ishigaki City will cost you around 5000 yen. It is my advice to only use a taxi if you absolutely need to.
Hitchhiking: You should hitch at your own risk. That being said, people in Yaeyama are usually very friendly, distances are short, and hitching can be rewarding. Go to the main circle-island road and stick your thumb out.
Ishigaki Beaches
All of the beaches near town (Maezato, Ohama, Fusaki) have been made "kirei." What this means is that large concrete walls have been constructed to prevent coastal erosion, huge concrete walls have been extended to block all hints of current, and nets have been strung up to prevent the horrible creatures of the deep from eating you alive. Indeed these so-called beaches are little more than glorified swimming pools, and because of the blocked current, they are often suspect to algae blooms. But they are safe and convenient so if you just want to splash around in the water on a hot day they could be an okay choice.
My advice is to hop on your bike early in the morning and explore the many beautiful beaches on the north-side of the island.
Yonehara Beach
Yonehara beach is the most popular beach on the island; because of this you will never be alone. Despite this, Yonehara is still a lovely beach. Development is picking up around the beach area, but when you stand on the beach, with the sea in front of you and the green flank of Mt. Omoto behind you, you still have a pretty good sense of being in the middle of nowhere. The reef is relatively close to the beach, and the area between the reef and the beach is filled with coral and fish. A great spot for snorkeling--if you do not own a snorkel, you can rent one for a reasonable price from the snack bar near the parking lot. A sad result of Yonehara's popularity is that the crowds have not been kind to the coral. Tourist who do not know better stand on living coral, break off pieces for souvenirs, stir up bottom murk, the result being that every year more and more coral turns brown. If the ocean is calm, and the tide is high, it is possible to swim out to the edge of the reef where you will encounter a world of amazing underwater canyons, and huge fish. Every year somebody dies at Yonehara beach, so be sure to know your own swimming ability--and read the article on rips before you go.
Yonehara is easy to find. It is marked on all maps--and road signs point the way. Continue on the round-island road to the west of the island (towards Kabira, and Nagura) untill you start to see signs. The beach is on the left hand side of the road. Yonehara beach is also a popular camping spot with running water, fire pits, and public bathrooms and showers. During the summer months many interesting Japanese travelers take up permanent residence at Yonehara. It is also, unfortunately, a popular beach party spot. If you camp, in the summer you might have trouble sleeping because of loud electric generators, people running their cars so that they can sit in air-conditioning, and huge electric lights that block out the stars. If they annoy you I recommend throwing the switch on the generators--but don't blame me when the mob lynches you.
Beach under the Bridge
On your way to Yonehara you will likely go over a bridge, below which you will see a spit of sand, ringed by high cliffs covered in Jungle. This place looks amazing, and it is. To get to the beach: turn left on the small road (almost a driveway) directly before crossing the bridge (if you are heading in the Yonehara direction). Continue down this road, almost to the end where you will see a small turnoff to the right. Follow this to a small car park and hike down the rocks to the beach. The reef is relatively close to shore here, and the waves break cleanly. In the mornings, this is a popular surf spot. One of the first things you will notice before venturing down to the beach is a large sign in both English and Japanese that warns of dangerous currents and forbids swimming. The currents are strong, and there are often dangerous cross currents. So don't swim here unless you have proper equipment (fins) a friend to swim with, and are very confident of your swimming ability. Do not go too far out either. If you do swim, the coral and fish are very very good, huge schools of fish, lots of interesting rocks.
Locals claim that man hungry ghosts haunt this area. Indeed, every time that I have camped here, as soon as the sun goes down clouds set in blocking out the sky, the temperature drops and the wind starts to blow a gale.
Camp at your own risk. Muahahaha!
Sukiji Beach
This beach is located near Club Med Kabira. This is a beautiful sandy beach, and if you want a place to just enjoy the water then this is the place to go. Showers, changing rooms, and bathrooms are located near the beach. To get to the beach follow the signs to Club Med Kabira. Prior to leaving town (on the relatively rural road to Club Med), the road forks--with one way leading down to the Seaman's Resort. Follow this road (not the road to Club Med) and continue straight to the beach. This beach is also on most tourist maps.
Uganzaki Beach
You will not find this beach on any maps. It is located directly after the Uganzaki light road. If you are coming down this road (from the light house) take a right and continue up and over the hill. Look to the left of the road for a small cleared-grass car park. to the side of this car park is a small trail that leads down to the beach.
The reef is closer to this beach than to any other beach in Ishigaki. As such the coral is amazing and the currents are strong. Swim with care.
Shiraho/WWF Coral Research Station
To the Northeast of Ishigaki City is the small village of Shiraho, home to the WWF Shiraho Coral Research Station. The station is located in Shiraho because of the important and extensive growth of Blue Coral off the coast here. Visit the Research Station Website for more information (only in Japanese).
Other Beaches
Ishigaki is an island ringed by beaches. These are only a few of the best known. Explore, have fun, be careful.
Ishigaki Sights to see, Events not to Miss...
Ishigaki is best seen by bicycle because it is easy to hop off and investigate interesting things to see.
Uganzaki Peninsula and Light
The Uganzaki Peninsula is an interesting and rewarding detour on the way to Yonehara and Kabira. After passing Nagura bay, take the first small turnoff to the Left. Continue on this road to the very tip of the peninsula where the road takes an almost 90 degree turn to the right at the bottom of a small hill near a cow field. Opposite the main road is a small dirt track, that continues on to the coast and the Denshinya, or old signal relay station. This is the last remaining ruin of a system of signal cables that connected the outer reaches of Imperial Japan. This particular relay station connected Ishigaki to Taiwan Taiwan. Now a ruin, this is a pleasant and quiet place for a picnic lunch. Though this is listed as an important city property it is not maintained at all (locals claim that many ghosts live here). Check out the article in the Fish about the Denshinya, located here.
Continue on the main road, enjoying the scenery, until you reach the turn off for the Uganzaki light (last left turn before the road wraps around the north coast of the peninsula). This is probably the best part of the island to enjoy the sunset, and as such is a popular spot of couples. Even if you are not in time for sunset, the ocean crashing around the black-coral cliffs is an amazing and energizing sight.
Kabira Bay/Club Med
Kabira Bay is listed as one of the "most beautiful sights in all Japan." And indeed the bay is stunningly beutiful. However, because the bay is so stunningly beautiful, it is has attracted less than beautiful tourist nick knack. If you want your picture taken in Ryukyu dress, than this is the place to do it. The bay serves as the cultivation site for the world famous Ryukyu Black pearls. If your wallet feels a bit heavy, drastically lighten in by visiting the pearl showroom. (If you start from the parking lot for Kabira Bay, head along the bay to the left for approx 3 mins to get to the Showroom.)
Directly across from the Ryukyu Black Pearl Showroom is the Omoto Awamori Factory. Awamori is the local liquor and is drunk ALL the time. The Omoto Awamori factory is a small family-run affair, viewing windows allow you to see the entire factory floor, and in the small shop at the end you can taste and purchase as much Awamori as you wish.
The area around Kabira Club Med is similar in geology to uganzaki. Well worth a small detour to see the rocks. If you are craving western cuisine, Club Med probably has the best, and most expensive fare on the island.
Yoshihara/Yonehara area
Past the turnoff for Yoshihara Elementary school, on the left hand side of the road, you will see a field. In the northwestern corner of this field (to your left if you are facing the field from the road) is a small monument and trail into the woods towards the beach. This trail is the site of an ancient and abandoned village. Towards the end of the trail is a small stone wall with a rock tunnel built into it. Beyond the wall is a pile of large white clamshells. This is an original Okinawan shrine, or sacred site. A little further down the trail, to the beach are more shrines and holly sites, as well as a giant banyan tree.
Nosoko Mappe
As you drive up the Northern cost of the island an extremely steep mountain will dominate your view. This is known as Nosoko Mappe, and is the ancient eroded cone of a volcano. A trail, which is somewhat hard to find, leaves from the north-coast road and climbs to the top of Nosoko Mappe, about a 45 min hike. The view from the top is a spactacular 360 degree view of the entire island. If you do not feel up for the hike, there is a new mountain road that has been built almost to the top of the mountain. Look for the grassy car park to the side of the road, and the small, almost invisible spur trail leading up (about a 10 min climb to the top).
According to local legend, many hundreds of years ago, there lived two lovers on the island of Kohama. In an effort to increase his power, a local ruler forced half the families on Kuroshima to migrate and settle the north coast of Ishigaki. Because of this edict, the two lovers were seperated. Mappe, the girl, was so distraught, that every night she climbed the highest peak near her village to catch a glimpse of her lover on far away Kohama. She spent so much time on top of this mountain, that eventually she turned to stone--and her shape can still be seen today in Nosoko Mappe.
Hirakubo
Hirakubo is the northern finger of Ishigaki. It is wild, sparsely populated by people (many cows and horses) and gorgeous. It is said that the water off of Hirakubo is a popular feeding ground for Sharks so be careful if you swim. According to Mayor Ohama, the nicest part of Ishigaki is the far side of Hirakubo. As you enter the peninsula, look for a dirt road that forks off of the main road. The road is fairly wild so unless you have 4 wheel drive it is best to walk. A walk to the tip takes about 3 hours and is quite pleasant. Good fishing off of the beaches here.
Ishigaki Town
Ishigaki city was spared destruction during World War II, though many are being torn down, there are still many old traditional okinawan houses scattered through the city. A wander around the backstreets can give you some idea of what this place once looked liked before the age of concrete.
Torinji
Torinji is the local temple it is small but interesting in its contrasts between mainland Japanese temples. The temple is of the Rinzai sect of Zen.
Torinbaku/ Kannondo
Along the road towards Fusaki Beach is the Torin Baku, and close-by Kannondo. Kannondo is a small Buddhist temple, and is pleasant to see. The torinbaku was built to honor a group of Taiwanese sailors who crashed into the rocks of Ishigaki many years ago. This place feels fairly institutionalized--if you like monuments than by all means go.
Ishigaki Events
There are many festivals in Ishigaki, see Tanedori Sai, Marunganashi, and Angama festival reports from the Ishigaki Fish. The big commercial festivals are the Ishigaki Matsuri in November, The Tobarama Taikai in September, and the Orion Beer festival in July.
Taketomi Jima
Taketomi is the closest island to Ishigaki, and as such makes for a convenient and pleasent half day (or couple of hours) excursion. Ferries run to Taketomi from the Ritou Sanbashi (Remote Island Ferry Terminal) every half hour. Round trip boat fare is approx. 900 yen.
Taketomi island is part of Iriomote National Park, and has been listed as a site for cultural preservation. The authorites only allow the construction of traditional Okinawan homes, and most of the roads in the village are paved with crushed shells. The place feels somewhat false, and touristified (like colonial Williamsburg) but it is still quite pleasant. Gondoi beach, to the north of the island, is sandy good to get a beach experience in. Taketomi is a good place to bring a book, lie under a tree and relax.
Iriomote Jima
Iriomote Island is the second largest island in all of Okinawa Prefecture, and it is also one of the most sparsely populated. A few days of any visit to Yaeyama should be spent on Iriomote, the island is every thing that Okinawa once was, and more. One of the most rewarding and easy ways to experience Iriomote is to do the cross-island hike. If you don't feel up for a total jungle adventure, then at least spend a half-day to hike to the first falls on the trail.
For both hikes, take the ferry from the ritou sanbashi (Remote Island Ferry Terminal) in Ishigaki to Funaura (4000 yen round trip). When you disembark at Funaura you will notice buses lined up--these are free with your ferry passage, just climb on one and tell the driver where you would like to go. If you are planning to do the hike or see the falls, say Urauchigawa guchi. At the urauchigawa guchi, take the river boat to the trail head. If you just plan on seeing the first two falls, follow the trail (a virtual highway) until you run into them. Be sure to check when the boat returns back down the river, so you won't be stuck in the jungle. If you are doing the cross-island hike, continue along the true right hand bank of the river and look for the red tape into the jungle.
Important Notes on Hiking in the Iriomote Jungle
If you plan to continue beyond the second waterfall on the cross-island hike, it is important to register your intent with the police station in Funaura and the Iriomote National Park Forestry station. Both can be done over the telephone from the Urauchigawa ferry terminal.
The jungle is dangerous, and every year an inexperienced hiker disappears. The forest is so dense that often bodies are never found. Be sure to pick up a good topographical map (available from the Taketomi Cho office, located in Ishigaki City, on Ishigaki) and bring a good compass.
The jungles of Iriomote are infested with Habu, or deadly poisonous Okinawan Pit Vipers. Be sure to wear sturdy shoes that protect your ankles. Habu do not lie in the trail waiting to bite unsuspecting hikers, so if you are careful you should be okay. (I have only seen a Habu once in the wild) Habu feed on small rodents and frogs and are generally most active at night. If you plan on camping in the interior, do not wander around after dark.
If you happen to be bitten by a habu, imobilize the limb with a splint, and tightly wrab it with cloth. Do not cut off circulation (as in a tourniquit) this method will increase your chances of loosing the limb. Seek medical help as soon as possible.
There are also many wild boar in the jungles of Iriomote. These boar are not afraid of people, and can be dangerous. Be sure to put all food and other good smelling things in a bag, up a tree--so as not to tempt the pigs.
You are likely to encounter leeches as well; it is good to do a leech check periodically. Leeches tend to like warm moist areas, so be sure to check your armpits, waistbands, beneath your socks etc. Do not pull leeches off with your fingers, doing so will squish their innards into your body and increase the chances of infection. Use salt or a lit match to force the leeches to fall off. Leeches anesthesize the area where they feed, so they are unlikely to hurt. They also inject an anticologulant that will prevent blood from clotting. Often in the summer months, the leeches are too many to worry about. They don't hurt, so I think its best to try and not think of them.
As the jungle is moist all the time, rocks and other surfaces are always very very slippery--take care and watch your footing.
The information for the following islands are incomplete because I have not had a chance to visit them yet. If you have traveled to these islands and have information to share then please do!
Kuroshima
Information on Kuroshima is Coming Soon
Kohama Jima
Information on Kohama Jima is coming Soon
Hatoma Jima
Information on Hatoma is Coming Soon
Hateruma Jima
Information on Hateruma is Coming Soon
Yoneguni Jima
Information on Yoneguni is Coming Soon
Useful Links
If you are looking for an unforgettable island experience than Hanalee is highly recommended. Mike, the owner, has been sailing in Yaeyama on his 40 foot sailboat for over 8 years, and knows many of the best spots to see coral. Beyond Snorkling, Mike can also arrange Kayak excursions, and the thrill of jumping off a waterfall on a zip-line.
Weather, Typhoon Warnings (In Japanese)
This page is in Japanese, but has very good weather information and typhoon warnings.
Okinawa Jet Community Home Page
This is the home page for the community of JETS (Japan Exchange and Teaching Program) in Okinawa. Be sure to check out the online JET community newsletter, The Okinawa JET Yak for interesting commentary on all things life in Okinawa.
Copyright 2005, Ishigaki CIR. All rights Reserved
